Discovering my Irish Roots: A Personal Itinerary Around Ireland

There’s something inherently magical about Ireland. Perhaps it’s the lush green landscape that seems to hum with ancient stories, the music that spills from every pub doorway, or the warm welcome from locals who treat strangers like old friends. As an experienced traveler, I’ve been fortunate to explore many corners of the world, but I must say, few places have captured my heart quite like Ireland.

Perhaps it’s because a good half of my mutt roots are deeply planted in the peaty soil of this remarkable island, where many of my second, third, and fourth cousins still call home. I’ve visited Ireland three times over the years, and I can say with certainty, I’ll be back again. This is the story of my visit in 2008, when I rented a car with my grandmother and her sister, and my mother and father—three generations of Irish women, and my poor Italian father, who patiently endured two weeks of spirited storytelling, ancestral deep dives, and detours through the emerald countryside.

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My Personal Ireland Itinerary

My three trips to Ireland have been highly personal. The first time I visited the Emerald Isle was when I was seven years old, accompanied by my Grandparents who had both immigrated from Ireland in their 20’s, and my mother. I have so many warm memories of meeting long-lost cousins, chasing down leprechauns and sleeping with hot water bottle at the foot of my cozy bed.

This itinerary is from my second visit to the Emerald Isle, when I was in my 20’s. In that way it felt like a bit of a reversal of my Grandparent’s journey. On this trip I was accompanied by my aging Grandmother after my grandfather’s passing, and both of my parents. We were later joined by my grandmother’s sister, who was a lively and welcomed addition to our party.

As many Irish adventures do, we began our journey in Dublin.

Dublin: A Capital with Character

Our journey began in Dublin, a city that strides confidently into the future while proudly showcasing its storied past. We landed at Dublin Airport and were warmly welcomed by my mother’s cousins, who hosted us in their home, a true introduction to Irish hospitality at its finest. The best way to get your bearings in Dublin is on foot, and we quickly set off to explore the cobbled lanes of Temple Bar, alive with street performers, vibrant pubs, and bright, character-filled storefronts.

Our first major stop was the Guinness Storehouse, one of Dublin’s most iconic attractions. More than just a brewery tour, it’s an immersive experience through the history and process of making Guinness, ending with a perfectly poured pint in the Gravity Bar, which offers panoramic views of the city.

Next, we wandered through the historic Dublin Castle, marveling at the state apartments and ancient Viking excavations beneath the structure. A highlight for me was visiting the Book of Kells at Trinity College. This stunning manuscript, created by Celtic monks over 1,200 years ago, is displayed alongside the awe-inspiring Long Room, one of the most beautiful libraries in the world.

One evening, we enjoyed a traditional Irish meal and live music at The Brazen Head, Dublin’s oldest pub dating back to 1198. The stew was hearty, the Guinness was fresh, and the atmosphere was unforgettable.

North to County Monaghan: Family Ties and Rural Beauty

After a few days in the capital, we picked up a rental car and drove north to County Monaghan, where my grandmother was raised, to visit more family. Monaghan, a county on the boarder of English owned Northern Ireland, may be lesser known to tourists, but it’s a gem of a county filled with rolling drumlins, peaceful lakes, and a deep sense of authenticity.

We explored Castle Leslie Estate, an impressive manor with beautiful grounds where you can ride horses or enjoy afternoon tea. A drive around Lough Muckno Park in Castleblayney offered a serene escape with walking trails, kayaking, and picnic spots.

In the town of Monaghan, we visited the Market House and explored the artsy Glaslough village nearby, full of charming cafes and galleries. Staying with family once again gave us a true taste of Monaghan hospitality, complete with home-cooked Irish breakfasts, coffee and pie with fresh cream and stories of fairies and leprechauns by the fireplace.

County Leitrim: Back to My Roots

From there, we continued northwest to County Leitrim, where my grandfather’s family farm, while dilapidated, still stands. This was a deeply personal leg of the journey, as we walked the same fields my late grandfather once tended.

One of my favorite memories from this visit was when we were searching for my grandfather’s farm. The 5 of us were packed into our rental car and pulled over to ask a woman who was walking down the lane with a handful of groceries if she knew the Rynn farm. She said, “Oh sure! I’ll show you, and you can drop me off in town on the way!” Then she proceeded to open the door and shove herself into the back seat.

She was very kind, and it was such a unique experience, far from the behavior you would expect in the States. Still, we dropped her off where she needed to be and she pointed us in the direction of the farm.

Leitrim is tranquil and unspoiled, with hidden gems like Glencar Waterfall, immortalized by W.B. Yeats, and the scenic Lough Gill. We spent time in Carrick-on-Shannon, a lively town on the River Shannon. The town’s Costello Chapel, one of the smallest churches in Europe, is a quick but poignant visit.

Sligo to Galway: Coastal Beauty and Cultural Hubs

We drove west through County Sligo, stopping to admire Benbulben, a flat-topped mountain that dominates the landscape. A detour to the beach at Strandhill offered fresh sea air and a seaside coffee on our way to Galway.

Galway is an artsy, energetic city on Ireland’s west coast and is a must-visit destination on any Irish itinerary. We stayed in a charming bed and breakfast on the edge of town and spent our days wandering the Latin Quarter, sampling oysters at the Spanish Arch, and enjoying street performances.

Galway Cathedral, with its mosaic interior and quiet ambiance, provided a contemplative moment. And on the opposite side of the spectrum, one evening we joined a pub crawl that introduced us to some of the best traditional music sessions in town. All together authentic, spontaneous, and full of life.

Cliffs of Moher, Lisdoonvarna & Dingle: Wild and Wonderful West

Leaving Galway, we drove south along the Wild Atlantic Way, stopping at the Cliffs of Moher. The cliffs are as breathtaking as they are iconic—towering, wind-swept, and stretching dramatically into the sea. We took a walking trail along the edge (at a safe distance!) and browsed the visitor center to learn about the geology and wildlife of the area, two of my favorite topics.

Further south, we stopped in the quirky town of Lisdoonvarna, famous for its annual Matchmaking Festival; and wouldn’t you know it, we were there just in time (the festival runs the full month of September). I think my parents may have planned it that way for their single daughter. The town’s romantic history adds character to its streets, and we picked up a few kitschy trinkets at local thrift shops.

Dingle was next; a town I could easily live in. With its colorful buildings, artisan shops, and friendly locals, it’s easy to fall in love. We took a boat tour from the harbor, historically known for its famous dolphin, Fungie. Though Fungie has since disappeared, the waters are still a great place to spot seals and seabirds.

We sampled incredible seafood at Out of the Blue and caught a traditional music session of fiddlers at Dick Mack’s Pub, a hybrid pub and leather shop with endless charm.

Kerry & Cork: Driving the Ring of Kerry and Discovering the Gift of Gab at Blarney Castle in County Cork

From Dingle, we embarked on the scenic Ring of Kerry drive. This loop offers jaw-dropping views at every turn; coastal cliffs, emerald pastures, and tiny villages tucked into the landscape. We paused often to take photos, stretch our legs, and chat with locals and other tourists alike.

Along the way, we explored Killarney National Park, where a jaunting car ride through the woods led us to the stunning Muckross House and Gardens. The lakes here are mirrored in beauty, and we even spotted a red deer or two.

As we headed back northeast, we stopped in Cork County to visit the legendary Blarney Castle. Of course, we climbed to the top to kiss the Blarney Stone, because who doesn’t want the gift of gab? The castle grounds are extensive and surprisingly enchanting, with gardens, caves, and even a poison garden.

We overnighted in a small village outside Cork in a family-run B&B, where we enjoyed homemade soda bread and black pudding, as well as engaging stories from our hosts about local folklore.

Back to Dublin: Ireland’s Enduring Magic

Our return to Dublin marked the end of our circuit, but the memories from this trip continue to live on. Ireland is more than a destination—it’s a feeling. It’s in the mist over the hills, the notes of a fiddle, and the welcome of a stranger. Whether you have family roots to trace like me or simply crave an adventure rich in culture, fable, history, and heart, Ireland delivers.

Final Thoughts from Your Travel Consultant

As a travel advisor, I highly recommend taking the slow road when creating you own personalized Ireland itinerary—rent a car, stay in family-run bed & breakfasts, and take time to explore both the well-trodden and the overlooked nooks of this incredible country. The magic of Ireland lies not just in its sights but in its soul.